Arang Kel: The Enchanting Valley
Exploring the Magical Beauty of Arang Kel: A Trek Through Northern Kashmir’s Breathtaking Landscapes
As a child, whenever Muhammad Ali Sadpara’s mother forbade him from climbing mountains, he would reply, “Mother, I am not going; the mountains are calling me.” Mountains indeed summon those who love them passionately. Such calls came to us too, and treating one as a call from a friend, we consulted among ourselves. Five friends, each from different professional backgrounds, made up our group. It took some time to arrange leave from work, and we decided to embark on our journey to the northern areas on August 22. While our destinations are rarely fixed, our direction always is – toward the northern regions.
We gathered at our dear friend Mansoor Cheema’s house at 10 p.m. As usual, he initially excused himself, citing urgent work, but after some intense persuasion and threats of exclusion from future trips, he gave in.
Fakhar works with the UN’s Global Fund, Asim is in telecommunications, Adeel runs a travel and tour business, and Mansoor Cheema is a lawyer, a highly skilled professional in his field. The journey had begun, but the debate over our destination continued. Fakhar suggested we head to Arang Kel, and I was on board with the idea. However, the other three felt that since they had already visited Arang Kel, they preferred to go to Sharan Forest. Fakhar countered, pointing out that we had visited Sharan just six months ago and should explore Neelum Valley instead. This back-and-forth continued until we reached the outskirts of Islamabad, with no final decision. Mansoor tried to convince us otherwise by mentioning a recent incident where a jeep fell into the Neelum River, killing seven people. But we responded with Ghalib’s verse:
“Why would someone who values faith and life come to your alley?”
Neither Mansoor’s threats nor Ghalib’s poetry worked. After bribing Asim to cross the floor, a vote was cast, and we decided to head toward Neelum Valley. We set out for Muzaffarabad via Murree, arriving there at 4 a.m. We crossed the Kohala Bridge, having traveled through the night, stopped briefly at a petrol station, grabbed some snacks from a roadside bakery, and resumed our journey toward our destination.
The road was far from ideal, with patches of broken pavement slowing our speed. We drove along the Neelum River, its turquoise waters, towering mountains, and cool breezes captivating our hearts. Since we were in the Azad Kashmir region, our Pakistani mobile networks were mostly out of service. Occasionally, signals would appear. Shortly after, a call came from Colonel Mazhar, asking where we were. When I told him we were heading to Arang Kel, he hung up, and soon after, we received a local call. It was a soldier named Manzoor, informing us that they were awaiting our arrival at the Kel checkpoint and that our accommodation in Arang Kel had been arranged, courtesy of Colonel Mazhar. We were still four hours away from Kel, but by the time we arrived, we had received about ten calls from Soldier Manzoor, eagerly awaiting us at the checkpoint.
On one side of the Neelum River lies Azad Kashmir, while on the other is Indian-occupied Kashmir, with the river symbolically separating freedom from oppression, joy from sorrow. I found myself wondering if life for the Kashmiris would be different had these two parts been united.
The entire journey to Kel was a mix of anguish and hope, with thoughts lingering about when the Kashmir Valley would truly become paradise. Upon reaching Kel, two soldiers greeted us, and a porter carried our luggage as we started our trek toward Arang Kel. After a brief walk, we reached the chairlift station by the river. Tickets in hand, we waited our turn. The chairlift, suspended high above the river, can carry eight people at a time. The three-to-four-minute ride across the river was breathtaking and filled with a mix of fear and delight.
Once we crossed the river, we continued on foot. Horses were available for the climb, but walking was the real experience; we had come all this way for trekking, after all. The journey through the mountains is a true test of one’s health. I have always been critical of using horses and jeeps in these regions for two reasons. First, making a challenging journey too easy attracts people who perhaps should not be there, diminishing the experience. It’s like summiting K2 by simply riding a helicopter. Second, the horses make such a mess on the trails that you need to cover your nose while walking. The presence of jeeps and horses for the sake of local employment often leads to the easy destruction of natural beauty in these areas.
The 40-minute trek from the chairlift went smoothly. By the time we reached the top, the sun was beginning to set. Sunset in the mountains is an incredibly enchanting sight. The soldiers led us to a beautiful wooden hut, situated away from the hotels and populated areas. Soldier Manzoor warmly welcomed us. We were exhausted from the two-day journey, but we were eager to enjoy the stunning sunset. We quickly freshened up, just as steaming hot green tea arrived, and we descended into the valley.
Smoke was rising from the chimneys of the valley’s homes, shepherds were leading their goats and sheep down from the mountains, and herds of horses were playfully bidding farewell to the sun’s last rays. The air was filled with a sweet fragrance, and the atmosphere was so pure that each breath felt like the first time we were breathing in our lives. After soaking in the beauty of this magical evening, we returned to our hut, where the soldiers treated us to a delightful dinner of biryani and chicken karahi. They set up chairs outside, and we lost ourselves in the starry sky. Nights in the mountains carry a certain sadness.
The sky was so clear that the stars seemed to be descending upon the earth. Yet, even in this heavenly valley, Arang Kel, problems persist, growing rather than diminishing. The valley’s inhabitants are becoming increasingly commercialized, cutting down trees to build wooden hotels. If this trend continues, the valley may become deserted within the next decade.
It seems as though the appearance of Gog and Magog has already taken place in our country. Neither the plains nor the beautiful northern valleys are safe from their reach. Anyone can draw a few lines and seize any area they desire. The blame for this lies on politicians, rulers, and the elite. Politicians provide the vision, the bureaucracy executes it, and the powerful institutions protect that vision. Unfortunately, all three groups have become rusted. May Allah protect our land from the wicked.
With heavy hearts, we bid farewell to Arang Kel the next day and returned to Gujranwala.
