Sirbaz Khan: “I Dedicate My Success to the Mountaineers Who Gave Their Lives for Their Love of the Mountains”
“After summiting all 14 of the world’s peaks that stand over 8,000 meters, I want to thank my wife and mother, who supported me every step of the way and were always concerned for my safety, despite our challenging financial situation.”
These were the heartfelt words of Pakistan’s most successful mountaineer, Sirbaz Khan, after becoming the first Pakistani to conquer the 8,027-meter-high Shishapangma peak in China, a monumental achievement in the world of mountaineering.
Sirbaz went on to say, “I dedicate this success to the brave mountaineers who lost their lives in their love for the mountains—Murad Sadpara, Ali Sadpara, my mentor Ali Raza Sadpara, and all the other courageous climbers.”
After successfully summiting Shishapangma, Sirbaz Khan also completed his quest to climb all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter-plus peaks.
Speaking to the media, Alpine Club of Pakistan Secretary General Karrar Haidri called it “a historic moment in Pakistan’s adventure sports history.” He added, “Pakistan has produced many renowned mountaineers, but Sirbaz Khan’s feat has become part of history, and its impact will be long-lasting.”
Haidri further emphasized that Sirbaz is now among the first 60 mountaineers globally to summit all 8,000-meter-plus peaks, a tremendous honor for Pakistan.
Pakistani record-holding mountaineer Naila Kiani shared her thoughts on Sirbaz’s achievement, saying, “Sirbaz has accomplished something the Pakistani climbing community had been waiting for a long time.”
A Challenging Ascent
After conquering Shishapangma, Sirbaz reflected on his experience, recalling how he had previously attempted the climb last year alongside renowned Pakistani mountaineer Naila Kiani and other international climbers, but their efforts were thwarted by tragedy. “As we neared the summit, an avalanche struck, claiming the lives of two climbers in our team. Naila and I survived, but the experience was devastating.”
Returning to the mountain this year, Sirbaz felt a wave of emotion as he passed the spot of last year’s tragedy. “For a moment, the entire scene replayed in my mind, but I refocused on the mission ahead, knowing I had to conquer the peak for my country, my people, and my loved ones.”
Sirbaz added, “The climb wasn’t easy. Just days earlier, I had led an expedition on K2, during which Pakistani climber Sultana successfully summited. After that, I was exhausted and wanted to spend time with my family, but when I heard that the Chinese government was issuing permits and visas, I knew I had to embark on this journey.”
Despite harsh weather conditions, Sirbaz worked closely with his Nepali Sherpas, setting up ropes as part of their team effort. “In between all the challenges, there were some interesting moments as well,” he recounted.
October: A Lucky Month for Sirbaz
Reflecting on his mountaineering career, Sirbaz noted that October has always been a lucky month for him. “I summited my first peak, Nanga Parbat, in October, under the guidance of the world-renowned Nepali climber Mingma G, who was the first to summit K2 in winter. It was Mingma G who gave me the opportunity to advance in mountaineering.”
“Now, once again in October, I’ve achieved this monumental feat with Mingma G by my side, who has also completed his quest to climb all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks.”
In a heartwarming coincidence, Sirbaz shared that he married his wife in October 2015 and celebrated their wedding anniversary on the summit of Shishapangma. “The first person I spoke to after the climb was my wife, to thank her for standing by me through every step.”
The expedition began on September 30, and Sirbaz humorously recalled telling Mingma G that they would likely reach the summit by October 4 or 5. “I told him it was my lucky month and day, so we were bound to succeed.”
Future Plans: Conquering the Remaining Peaks Without Oxygen
Sirbaz Khan shared his plans for the future, saying, “Pakistan is home to the world’s highest concentration of peaks over 5,000, 6,000, and 7,000 meters, many of which remain unclimbed. Peaks like Malka Parbat have untapped potential to boost tourism in Pakistan, and I plan to work on that.”
He also expressed his desire to climb Pakistan’s unclimbed peaks, believing that by doing so, mountaineers from Europe, the U.S., and other countries will be drawn to Pakistan. Sirbaz aims to establish a modern training center to provide proper training for aspiring mountaineers.
“I also want to do something for the families of mountaineers who have lost their lives in pursuit of their passion. My mission is to ensure that foreign climbers coming to Pakistan no longer need to rely on foreign mountaineers for assistance. Our local climbers should be the ones to support them.”
Sirbaz proudly stated, “I’ve summited 12 of the 14 peaks without supplemental oxygen. Due to extreme conditions, I couldn’t climb the remaining two without oxygen.”
Looking ahead, Sirbaz plans to return in 2025 to summit those two peaks without oxygen, completing his mission of conquering all 14 of the world’s highest peaks without supplemental oxygen.
